The year is 1964 and the Rootes Group that had previously taken over the Humber marque was in deep financial trouble. Between 1962 and 1964 it made losses in excess of £2.5 million, a lot of money at that time. Like most of the other motor manufactures at the time vehicles were becoming difficult to sell and many were being stockpiled unfinished because of the industrial unrest and strikes plaguing the company.

On the 12 th December 1964 Lord Rootes of Ramsey, Chairman of the Rootes Group died, causing yet another headache for the Company. Losses were by this time running at £10 million. A complete change of the top managers and directors in January 1965, led the company to tool up for badly needed new modern models and by October 1966 the first of the ‘Arrow’ range of cars had left the drawing board, been announced and launched as the Hillman Hunter. However by this time the company was passing into the hands of the vast Chrysler Empire. It was Rootes first vehicle featuring Monocoque body construction, McPherson struts and Disc brakes on the front. The power unit was the well-proven 1725cc five bearing engine already in use in its predecessor the Hillman Super Minx, Singer Vogue and MKII Humber Sceptre.

In September 1967, the Humber Sceptre is announced, this is the luxury model in the Rootes 1725cc range and was the only remaining Humber Model being manufactured. Body design and major mechanical components were broadly similar to those used on similarly sized Rootes group Arrow Range vehicles, but adapted to suit the requirements of the Humber specifications. There were also by this time many other variants of the model including Singer Vogue, Sunbeam Rapier, Hillman Minx, Sunbeam Alpine and Hillman Hunter GT models using a vast array of engine and carburetted variants.

Initially produced at Ryton on Dunsmore between 1967 and 1969 the production was transferred to Lynnwood in 1969 where it remained until 1976 when the last Humber finally rolled of the production line and into the history books.

Get behind the wheel of this late 1960s car and your first impression is that of a light airy, comfortable, stylish, modern family car. This is further reinforced by the impressive glass area and clean line of the bonnet. The interior is modern-traditional and combines extensive use of burr walnut veneer with practical planning and extensive equipment. The facia follows the classic pattern of the times with black-faced circular dials. Instruments on the main board are a speedometer, rev counter, oil gauge, thermometer, ammeter, and fuel gauge; the clock is set in the consul above the prop shaft tunnel. The top surface of this like the cappings of the doors is again burr walnut veneer. Among the array of warning lights is also one to indicate that only 2 gallons of fuel remains in the tank. Heating and ventilation follow the effective plan of two-speed blower, face level ventilators at each end of the facia board and rear pillar air extraction.

Engine 1725cc
Power is provided by a Humber version of the familiar Rootes Group 1725cc five bearing engine mounted at 10 degrees from the vertical and only one compression ratio (9-2.1). The engines are very simple, very tough and relatively cheap to pick up second hand. They should be good for at least 100,000 miles before needing a rebuild, first signs of trouble is usually indicated by big end knock when the vehicle is under load.

Sceptres are all fitted with alloy heads and if previous owners have economised on antifreeze, you could be looking at silted up waterways and an engine that overheats. Sludge collects around the rear of no four cylinder causing the back core plug to blow or in the worst cases for the number four piston to seize or knock out its big end bearing. Make sure there is no brown mush under the oil filler cap indicating that its already overheated and blown a gasket or warped the head. Reclaiming a corroded head involves alloy welding and that gets expensive.

Poor running on normal engines can be down to something as simple as a blocked flame trap fitted to the breather between the rocker box and the carburettor air box. (It can be cleaned out with petrol) All engines should give over 40psi on the oil pressure gauge at anything more than idle.

If you find a vehicle is fitted with twin Webber carburettors then its probably been fitted with an up rated Holbay engine but the same principles apply.

Unleaded
It is generally thought that the whole range of cars is unable to run on unleaded, due to the alloy head and the steel inserts not being hard enough. Yet conversations with the cars designers have revealed that this is not the case.

Apparently whilst in development, the alloy heads were being fitted to the old super minx models for rallying in Europe. They were fitted hardened valves and seats because leaded fuel wasn’t freely available on the continent. When the Arrow range went into production no specification changes were made. The writer has been running a fleet of cars for 10 years to no adverse affect.

Suspension
The ride and steering on all Arrow cars is good, if it handles like a bag of mush, then the chances are the front struts need overhauling or the rear shocks are knackered. Replacement lower swivel joints, track rod ends, and shocks are all cheaply available and can transform grotty handling.

Old worn out tyres, unbalanced wheels and incorrect tyre pressure can also have serious effect on steering.

Electrics
Generally all electrics on these cars were of a high standard with no major areas of failure. That said the later Sceptres were fitted with illuminated switches, which can be troublesome and are virtually unobtainable.

Brakes
All cars have discs at the front and drums at the rear; assisted with a servo, the whole range of Sceptres and in fact all the Rootes cars are renowned for their excellent brakes. Properly maintained they are more than adequate to bring a fully loaded vehicle to a stop. The pedal should have a positive feel with very little travel if it feels spongy, then its due to air in the system or a leak, rarely it may be a defective servo.

Gearboxes
Generally as long lived as the engine, all were fitted with overdrive on third and forth gear, giving a superb drive and better fuel economy. The gear changes should be smooth and slick. If it’s vague and notchy then the box is worn. The manual gearboxes had synchromesh on all forward gears-it usually goes on second gear first.

Back axles do tend to whine a bit and this noise increases the miles rack up and it’s rare for them to require any attention for at least 1000,000 miles.

The Borg Warner auto boxes are exceptionally long lived and rarely require attention as long as the recommended fluid changes are carried out.

Bodywork
Having looked and listened to the engine any potential purchaser must realize many of the cars that have survived the ravages of time, in many cases over forty years, without doubt will be suffering the age-old problem of body-rot. This factor alone has decimated the Arrow range of vehicles. That said they are no worse than any of their contemporaries of the time.

Spot the rot guide

Lift the bonnet whilst listening to the engine and check the structure around the McPherson strut upper mounting. This area isn’t normally a problem on this range of cars. Check the inner wings and the chassis where the steering box bolts on.

Check the area down the trailing edges of the front wings for evidence of attack, in worst cases large holes will be evident. More especially attention to the areas around the door hinges. Gently rock the door up and down and also check for badly worn hinges at the same time. Have a good look at the bottom of the door where the drain holes are supposed to be

Lift up the carpet and examine the floor pan below the pedals these are notorious for rot and large holes are not an uncommon sight. Whilst you’re down there check the inner and outer sills and the chassis outriggers. Heavy rust in these areas means serious welding work will have to be done. Have a look at the front screen seal, as a perished seal will allow water intrusion that fills the floor pan causing the rust.

Examine the area around the lower rear wings, again an area that suffers from road salts and stones. Check around the boot lid seal and rear screen seal again looking for perished seals that allow water intrusion in the boot. Wet carpet in the saloons not only rots the carpet it rusts the petrol tank and floor of the boot.

While you’re in the boot have a good look at the tops of the rear wheel arches, as that’s where the shock absorbers bolt through. This is an area especially prone to rust from below, it can go totally un-noticed until it’s to late and repair is difficult and expensive.

Check the rear valance mud and salt again have devastating results, worse still immediately behind are the rear spring mountings and these need to be closely examined. Welding and replacement again is serious welding job